Sorry pet lovers that it has been a few months since I have posted a new entry.
As promised this entry will give you pointers on picking the right collar and leash for your pet.
First up - collars.
There are many types of collars and harnesses on the market for your four-legged family member.
Regular Buckle Collar
This type of collar has a standard metal buckle with a d-ring on it to hold your dog's id information, and rabies tag. This type of collar is a good everyday type of collar and in my experience the easiest to train a dog to walk politely on a leash with.
Martingale Collar
Many people are not aware of this type of collar. This is a good type of collar for escape artist dogs. You know they type. Those that like to slip out of their collar while you are taking them for their morning or afternoon walk. These can also be used for small headed dogs - where the head is smaller than their neck - i.e. Greyhound. With this type of collar, when tension is applied to the leash, the collar will tighten slightly, preventing the dog from escaping the collar. These are not like a choke collar. They do have a stopping point and will stop tightening at a certain point. These can either me made of material only, or material and chain. This is another one that is easy to train a dog to walk politely on a leash.
Standard Harness
This type of harness is just a regular harness. It is not meant to stop a dog from pulling. These are good for dogs that have sensitive neck areas. However - pay attention to where the clip for the leash is. If the clip is in the back between the shoulder blades, be prepared to have no control over your dog. Harnesses are better used on smaller dogs than on larger dogs. That being said, some people choose to walk their dogs using two leashes, or at least a leash coupler - one end attached to the harness, and the other end attached to a regular buckle collar. Sometimes this type of collar actually makes a dog pull harder on the leash.
No-pull Harness
The specific purpose of this harness is to stop the dog from pulling on a leash. These usually have a leash clip in the front on the dogs upper chest area. In my experience, I am not an advocate for these types of harnesses because you may find it difficult to find the proper fit for your dog, or you may find that they do not work on the pulling.
Head Collar
These types of collars work by going over the dog's nose and fasten behind the ears, with the leash clip under the chin. Many dogs do not like these types of collars because they do not like things that go around their muzzle. This is another collar that is aimed at minimizing the amount the dog pulls on the leash. If used incorrectly they can severely injure your dog.
Prong Collar
These collars inflict pain on your dog when he or she pulls on the leash. They have prongs all the way around the inside of the collar that prod into the dog's neck when they pull on the leash. It does have a built in stopping point like the Martingale. I am not an advocate for this type of collar because of the use of pain to teach a dog to not pull on a leash.
Choke Chains
In my opinion, these should not be used under any circumstances. They do not have a built in stop like the prong or martingale and can cause severe damage to a dog's throat - internally and externally.
Now with all of the options of collars listed - I am an advocate for either the standard buckle collar or the Martingale collar. They are both good for everyday use and should not under any circumstances inflict pain or injury on your pet.
Now on to leashes
Leashes come in a variety of materials and lengths.
Nylon
This is one of the most popular materials used for leashes. This is a sturdy material that can be used with any of the above mentioned collars. Usually you can buy a standard buckle nylon collar and leash to match. Here is one drawback to a nylon leash - if not used properly it can cause a leash burn on your hand if you have a strong dog that pulls when started.
Chain
I do not recommend this type of leash. It is heavy, hard on the hands, if it gets stuck in a dog's mouth can cause dental damage and can even break your hand or finger if it gets wrapped around your hand.
Leather
Leather is a strong, versatile material and is gentler on the hands than nylon. It does have a slight, natural give to it.
Retractable Leashes
Where to start with these. These leashes are just plain dangerous. They are dangerous to dogs and humans. Let me explain. Your dog can be up to say 15 feet away from you and if an emergency arises you have basically no control over your dog, let alone the fact that you cannot quickly get the dog back to a safe distance next to you. Your instinct will be to grab the thin little rope that comes out of the leash and pull causing a nasty rope burn on your hand. It is very for you the handler to become entangled in the leash when it is extended, same could be said for other passerby's.
Other than the retractable leashes - leashes come in 4' or 6' length. If you are within city limits the four foot length is a safe length to keep your dog under close supervision yet allow him to have a little bit of freedom.
So for collars I recommend either a standard buckle or martingale and for leashes I recommend either nylon or leather.
For collar fit - the collar should fit as such. High on the pet's neck, but not loose so as to slide down by the shoulders. They should be snug enough that you should be able to fit two fingers between the dog's neck and his collar. And the collar should not fit over the dog's head. The collar should not restrict breathing or cause the dog to cough. Check collar size frequently on growing puppies. Collar size should also be checked occasionally in adult dogs as well.
For safety - the dog should only where a collar when out in public or on walks. If the dog is indoors the collar should not be on, especially if it is crated or playing with other dogs. You risk the collar becoming caught in the crate and choking the dog and if there are other dogs present, you risk the collar being caught in another dog's mouth during playtime again choking the dog.
I do have a couple of websites that I recommend for collars and leashes. I have owned collars and leashes from both companies and they stand up well to strong dogs and weather, compared to those that you buy at the pet store.
For collars - www.collarmania.com
For leashes - www.ellaslead.com
Up Next - Crate Training
Friday, January 07, 2011
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Foods That Are Toxic to Dogs
Many dog owners do not realize there are many foods that are toxic to dogs. These include many foods that humans eat on a daily basis. Just because we eat it, does not mean it is safe for your pet.
I will go through multiple foods and why they are toxic to dogs. Please also note that you may be able to feed a pet what is considered toxic one time and can kill or harm your pet, or you can feed it one time and nothing happen and the next time you feed it the same thing it can harm or kill your pet.
Another note: Your pet may not show signs of eating something harmful immediately, sometimes symptoms can take a few hours to show up.
Chocolate
Chocolate is toxic - despite the fact that you may see or hear about some people feeding their dogs chocolate. Do not intentionally feed your pet this sweet candy. Chocolate can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and can also cause major damage to the heart and nervous system of your pet. The most lethal form of chocolate is cocoa powder and baking chocolate - these types of chocolate are in their purest form. The next dangerous forms of chocolate are semi-sweet and dark chocolate. Other symptoms of chocolate toxicity include labored breathing, abdominal pain, fever, seizures, and coma to name a few.
Onions
Onions have a chemical in them that can damage the red blood cells of dogs and cause anemia. Anemia is where the red blood cells burst inside the bloodstream. Onion toxicity can take a few hours or even a few days to manifest. Symptoms include labored breathing, liver damage, vomiting, diarrhea, and possibly death.
Alcohol
Although some people think it is funny to give their dog beer or alcohol and watch the dog stumble around, alcohol is more serious in pets than humans. Dogs can fall into a coma and die from even the smallest amount of alcohol.
Bones
Although some people feed their animals leftover bones from meals such as chicken, ham or steak bones. This is not a good idea. Let me explain why. Fish bones can puncture the lining of the esophagus, stomach or intestines, leaking poison into the body. Other bones including fish bones can become lodged anywhere in the intestinal track of a dog causing obstructions and lacerations which can be costly and even lead to death.
Grapes/Raisins
Both grapes and raisins are toxic to dogs. The toxin they contain is unknown, however it can cause extreme damage to the kidneys. With grapes and raisins it may only take 1 to make your pet sick. Symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, and lethargy.
Nuts
Most nuts are toxic to dogs, specifically macadamia nuts. Nuts are high in phosphorus which leads to bladder stones. Symptoms of nut toxicity include muscle tremors, weakness, paralysis of hindquarters, excessive panting, swollen limbs and joint pain.
Pits and Seeds from Fruit
Pits and seeds from fruit contain a form of cyanide - and just like in humans cyanide is toxic.
Avocado
All parts of avocado including the tree are toxic to dogs.
Next Up: Picking the Right Collar & Leash
I will go through multiple foods and why they are toxic to dogs. Please also note that you may be able to feed a pet what is considered toxic one time and can kill or harm your pet, or you can feed it one time and nothing happen and the next time you feed it the same thing it can harm or kill your pet.
Another note: Your pet may not show signs of eating something harmful immediately, sometimes symptoms can take a few hours to show up.
Chocolate
Chocolate is toxic - despite the fact that you may see or hear about some people feeding their dogs chocolate. Do not intentionally feed your pet this sweet candy. Chocolate can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and can also cause major damage to the heart and nervous system of your pet. The most lethal form of chocolate is cocoa powder and baking chocolate - these types of chocolate are in their purest form. The next dangerous forms of chocolate are semi-sweet and dark chocolate. Other symptoms of chocolate toxicity include labored breathing, abdominal pain, fever, seizures, and coma to name a few.
Onions
Onions have a chemical in them that can damage the red blood cells of dogs and cause anemia. Anemia is where the red blood cells burst inside the bloodstream. Onion toxicity can take a few hours or even a few days to manifest. Symptoms include labored breathing, liver damage, vomiting, diarrhea, and possibly death.
Alcohol
Although some people think it is funny to give their dog beer or alcohol and watch the dog stumble around, alcohol is more serious in pets than humans. Dogs can fall into a coma and die from even the smallest amount of alcohol.
Bones
Although some people feed their animals leftover bones from meals such as chicken, ham or steak bones. This is not a good idea. Let me explain why. Fish bones can puncture the lining of the esophagus, stomach or intestines, leaking poison into the body. Other bones including fish bones can become lodged anywhere in the intestinal track of a dog causing obstructions and lacerations which can be costly and even lead to death.
Grapes/Raisins
Both grapes and raisins are toxic to dogs. The toxin they contain is unknown, however it can cause extreme damage to the kidneys. With grapes and raisins it may only take 1 to make your pet sick. Symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, and lethargy.
Nuts
Most nuts are toxic to dogs, specifically macadamia nuts. Nuts are high in phosphorus which leads to bladder stones. Symptoms of nut toxicity include muscle tremors, weakness, paralysis of hindquarters, excessive panting, swollen limbs and joint pain.
Pits and Seeds from Fruit
Pits and seeds from fruit contain a form of cyanide - and just like in humans cyanide is toxic.
Avocado
All parts of avocado including the tree are toxic to dogs.
Next Up: Picking the Right Collar & Leash
Monday, August 23, 2010
Dog Food - How to Pick the Right One
Many people don't put a lot of thought into the food they feed their pets. But go to any store and there are so many choices, and many that advertise to be premium dog food and very healthy for your pet actually aren't.
Here's a couple things to keep in mind when looking at dog food. After these considerations I will go more into depth about which is better for your animal.
Most dog foods are made of fillers and by-products. Neither one is healthy for your pet.
Secondly, dogs are not vegetarians, they are omnivores, meaning they eat meat and vegetables. Just because you are a vegetarian, doesn't mean your animal is.
If there is an ingredient on the list that you wouldn't eat - don't buy it.
Now with those things in mind - let's get down to business.
How to read the ingredient label:
Ingredients are listed in order. The first ingredient makes up most of the food. Dogs do not need a lot of carbohydrates or fillers such as flour, wheat or corn. Some of your cheaper brands of dog food the first ingredient listed may be corn meal. THIS IS BAD. Whether buying canned or dry - the first listed ingredient should be a meat.
By-products.
Look for food that does not include by-product. This is another ingredient that isn't healthy. Again some of the cheaper brands, in the list of ingredients it may say 'chicken by-product.' Again, this is bad. By-products are things such as ears, hooves, and other parts of the animals that humans don't eat. You want something that says 'meal' with it. Whether it be 'chicken meal' or 'beef meal'. This is a healthy ingredient.
Type of Food
There is no need for puppy food or senior food. Find a food that has an 'All Life Stages' line. Then you can continue to feed it to the dog when it is a puppy and as it ages into senior-hood.
Size of Dog
If you own what is considered a 'large breed dog' you will want to find a dog food that is geared toward them, same can be said for 'small breed dogs'. These food have extra minerals and vitamins in them geared toward joint health for large breeds.
Kibble Color
Here is the reason I bring this up. Many mainstream brands on the market have pieces that are different colors. Here is the problem with that - food coloring has been added to the food to make it that color. Again - THIS IS BAD.
That being said - stay away from brands that have colored kibble. I won't name names, but you can look on the bag or watch the commercials and know which brands I am talking about.
Good kibble will be all one color - which usually means no additives.
Most good dog foods can cost a decent amount of money. However, the more expensive brands that you DON'T see in commercials, the dog will eat less of. Which means the bag of food will last longer.
I also recommend going to smaller pet stores or feed stores in your area to find a good brand of dog food.
Most vet's offices promote a couple of brands - which can now be found in chain grocery stores. I do not recommend these brands. Again look at the ingredients.
A good ingredient list should read something like this
Chicken Meal, Chicken, Herring Meal, Potatoes, Chicken Fat, Dried Chicken Liver, Sweet Potatoes, Herring Oil, Eggs, Kelp, Alfalfa Sprouts, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae, Carrots, Celery, Beets, Dried Whey, Casein, DL-Methionine, Sea Salt, Taurine, Carnitine, Glucosamine, Lecithin, Lactobacillus Acidophilus, Lactobacillus Casei, Lactobacillus Lactis, Bacillus Bifidum, Bacillus Subtillus, Zinc Amino Acid Complex, Choline Chloride, Iron Amino Acid Complex, Vitamin E Supplement, Manganese Amino Acid Complex, Copper Amino Acid Complex, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Vitamin A Acetate, Niacin, Calcium Pantothenate, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Riboflavin, Folic Acid, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamine Hydrochloride, Biotin, Cobalt Proteinate, Potassium Iodide, Sodium Selenite, Mixed Tocopherols (a natural preservative), Citric Acid, Yucca Schidigera, Rosemary Extract.
Notice that many of the top 20 or so ingredients are good for human consumption.
Here is an example of a BAD ingredient list
corn, soybean meal, beef and bone meal, ground wheat flour, animal fat (bha used as preservative), corn syrup, wheat middlings, water sufficient for processing, animal digest (source of chicken flavor), propylene glycol, salt, hydrochloric acid, potassium chloride, caramel color, sorbic acid (used as a preservative), sodium carbonate, minerals (ferrous sulfate, zinc oxide, manganous oxide, copper sulfate, calcium iodate, sodium selenite), choline chloride, vitamins (vitamin E supplement, vitamin A supplement, niacin supplement, D-calcium pantothenate, riboflavin supplement, pyridoxine hydrochloride, thiamine mononitrate, vitamin D3 supplement, folic acid, biotin, vitamin B12 supplement), calcium sulfate, titanium dioxide, yellow 5, yellow 6, red 40, BHA (used as a preservative), dl methionine.
Notice that the first two ingredients are fillers. Not only that this particular food has corn syrup in it. Dogs do not need corn syrup. If you look at the bottom of the list it has food coloring - again bad.
Many premium dog foods do not advertise with commercials or even on the internet. You have to do your research in the store.
I don't name actual brands of dog food on this blog entry to avoid the legality. But if you would like to know recommendations for which brand to purchase, send me a comment or message and I will give you recommendations that way.
Another alternative which can take some time is actually cooking for your dog. You can cook meat and vegetables just like you would for yourself but without any seasonings. I will be making a blog entry later about the RAW diet.
Up Next: Things that are Poisonous to Dogs
Here's a couple things to keep in mind when looking at dog food. After these considerations I will go more into depth about which is better for your animal.
Most dog foods are made of fillers and by-products. Neither one is healthy for your pet.
Secondly, dogs are not vegetarians, they are omnivores, meaning they eat meat and vegetables. Just because you are a vegetarian, doesn't mean your animal is.
If there is an ingredient on the list that you wouldn't eat - don't buy it.
Now with those things in mind - let's get down to business.
How to read the ingredient label:
Ingredients are listed in order. The first ingredient makes up most of the food. Dogs do not need a lot of carbohydrates or fillers such as flour, wheat or corn. Some of your cheaper brands of dog food the first ingredient listed may be corn meal. THIS IS BAD. Whether buying canned or dry - the first listed ingredient should be a meat.
By-products.
Look for food that does not include by-product. This is another ingredient that isn't healthy. Again some of the cheaper brands, in the list of ingredients it may say 'chicken by-product.' Again, this is bad. By-products are things such as ears, hooves, and other parts of the animals that humans don't eat. You want something that says 'meal' with it. Whether it be 'chicken meal' or 'beef meal'. This is a healthy ingredient.
Type of Food
There is no need for puppy food or senior food. Find a food that has an 'All Life Stages' line. Then you can continue to feed it to the dog when it is a puppy and as it ages into senior-hood.
Size of Dog
If you own what is considered a 'large breed dog' you will want to find a dog food that is geared toward them, same can be said for 'small breed dogs'. These food have extra minerals and vitamins in them geared toward joint health for large breeds.
Kibble Color
Here is the reason I bring this up. Many mainstream brands on the market have pieces that are different colors. Here is the problem with that - food coloring has been added to the food to make it that color. Again - THIS IS BAD.
That being said - stay away from brands that have colored kibble. I won't name names, but you can look on the bag or watch the commercials and know which brands I am talking about.
Good kibble will be all one color - which usually means no additives.
Most good dog foods can cost a decent amount of money. However, the more expensive brands that you DON'T see in commercials, the dog will eat less of. Which means the bag of food will last longer.
I also recommend going to smaller pet stores or feed stores in your area to find a good brand of dog food.
Most vet's offices promote a couple of brands - which can now be found in chain grocery stores. I do not recommend these brands. Again look at the ingredients.
A good ingredient list should read something like this
Chicken Meal, Chicken, Herring Meal, Potatoes, Chicken Fat, Dried Chicken Liver, Sweet Potatoes, Herring Oil, Eggs, Kelp, Alfalfa Sprouts, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae, Carrots, Celery, Beets, Dried Whey, Casein, DL-Methionine, Sea Salt, Taurine, Carnitine, Glucosamine, Lecithin, Lactobacillus Acidophilus, Lactobacillus Casei, Lactobacillus Lactis, Bacillus Bifidum, Bacillus Subtillus, Zinc Amino Acid Complex, Choline Chloride, Iron Amino Acid Complex, Vitamin E Supplement, Manganese Amino Acid Complex, Copper Amino Acid Complex, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Vitamin A Acetate, Niacin, Calcium Pantothenate, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Riboflavin, Folic Acid, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamine Hydrochloride, Biotin, Cobalt Proteinate, Potassium Iodide, Sodium Selenite, Mixed Tocopherols (a natural preservative), Citric Acid, Yucca Schidigera, Rosemary Extract.
Notice that many of the top 20 or so ingredients are good for human consumption.
Here is an example of a BAD ingredient list
corn, soybean meal, beef and bone meal, ground wheat flour, animal fat (bha used as preservative), corn syrup, wheat middlings, water sufficient for processing, animal digest (source of chicken flavor), propylene glycol, salt, hydrochloric acid, potassium chloride, caramel color, sorbic acid (used as a preservative), sodium carbonate, minerals (ferrous sulfate, zinc oxide, manganous oxide, copper sulfate, calcium iodate, sodium selenite), choline chloride, vitamins (vitamin E supplement, vitamin A supplement, niacin supplement, D-calcium pantothenate, riboflavin supplement, pyridoxine hydrochloride, thiamine mononitrate, vitamin D3 supplement, folic acid, biotin, vitamin B12 supplement), calcium sulfate, titanium dioxide, yellow 5, yellow 6, red 40, BHA (used as a preservative), dl methionine.
Notice that the first two ingredients are fillers. Not only that this particular food has corn syrup in it. Dogs do not need corn syrup. If you look at the bottom of the list it has food coloring - again bad.
Many premium dog foods do not advertise with commercials or even on the internet. You have to do your research in the store.
I don't name actual brands of dog food on this blog entry to avoid the legality. But if you would like to know recommendations for which brand to purchase, send me a comment or message and I will give you recommendations that way.
Another alternative which can take some time is actually cooking for your dog. You can cook meat and vegetables just like you would for yourself but without any seasonings. I will be making a blog entry later about the RAW diet.
Up Next: Things that are Poisonous to Dogs
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Potty Training
Oh the joys of owning a new puppy.
Potty training can be one of the most frustrating parts of training.
Some old school methods that you may remember using as a kid - don't really work. i.e. rubbing the dogs nose in the mess and putting the dog outside, or smacking it with a rolled up newspaper. While these were the methods of our parents - they do not work. The only thing they work for is instilling fear in your new puppy. Fear of you.
There are some basic rules you need to remember when starting the potty training process
#1 - If you don't catch the puppy in the act - DO NOT PUNISH THEM!!!
The way a dog's mind works is that if you punish them for a puddle you find on the floor, they aren't going to know you are punishing them for the puddle on the floor. They are going to think that you are punishing them for whatever they were doing when you punished them.
#2 - When the puppy does the right thing (i.e. go potty outside) praise like crazy!!!!
If they use the bathroom outside and you act a fool and praise them (every time in the beginning) a little light bulb will eventually go off in their head as the they get the hang of it. They will realize that going to the bathroom outside makes you happy - and gets them treats.
Okay now on to potty training methods - you can use newspapers, or the puppy pads, or the method that I have been more successful at and seems to be a little bit quicker and it actually doubles as getting the puppy used to being in a crate for periods of time when it cannot be supervised - Crate Training.
CRATE TRAINING
Now with a crate - do not get one that is too large - it should be large enough for them to lay down comfortably. That being said if you have a puppy like a rottweiler that will eventually be rather large, buy a crate that has a removable metal divider in it. This way the cage can grow with the puppy.
Dogs do not like to lay down in the same place they use the bathroom.
The easiest way to house train a puppy, is whenever they cannot be supervised they should be in the crate. It may seem a little harsh, but once a dog is used to their crate they will see it as a safe place for them to be even if they don't have to be.
Now before locking them in their crate - get in the habit of taking them outside to potty right before you lock them up. And as soon as you let them out take them outside. This will decrease the chances of accidents.
Do not put any food or water in the crate - you will be defeating your purpose of house training if you do this. Just a blanket and a safe chew toy (some chew toys should not be given to dogs unsupervised - which will be another blog topic in the future).
Also to begin with do not let the dog sleep outside of the crate. Once you know he or she is potty trained, you can increase the amount of time left outside of the crate.
There are two other methods - but the first of these two methods usually is not feasible in most instances. It is constant supervision
Constant Supervision
Constant supervision is just that. It does not involve a crate, or papers which will be discussed in the next method. You spend any and all necessary time with the puppy. This method only works for those who spend every waking minute with their animal. This method also means that you have to be very 'in tune' with your puppy in noticing when he does what is called the 'pre-potty pattern' Now depending on the dog's personality, the 'pre-potty pattern' can be hard to recognize. Some puppies pace, or get in your face to get your attention, some sniff the floor, some will whine, and others do nothing. With this method there is no room for error. There is no place in the home for accidents - other than your nice carpet, linoleum, tile or laminate flooring. Also with this method - it restricts the amount of playing outside. When you take them outside, after they do their business, you praise like crazy and bring them inside immediately. They need to associate the outside with potty time.
Papers & Pads
Many people and actually one method of the past that can work is laying down newspaper or puppy pads. With this method you place many pads in one area that is okay if they get it off the papers. Once they get the hang of using the papers, when you see them going into the 'pre-potty pattern' pick them up and take them outside to do their business.
As they get better at using the papers, begin moving the papers closer to the door that you usually use to take them outside. Then eventually you will have one set by the door, but you will also want to place another set outside. The next step, again as the puppy gets better at understanding that pottying happens outside, is to eliminate the papers inside.
On a final note: There is a flaw with this method. This method tells the puppy in the beginning that it is okay to go to the bathroom inside. Making it harder to housebreak the puppy. So this method is more difficult and more time consuming.
VERBAL CUES
This part of potty training should be used with all methods. Figure out a word to use to signal to the dog to go outside. In our household we use 'Outside?' And it is a question. That extra tone in your voice will help to get the dog excited about going outside.
An important note about verbal cues: If you live with more than one person, make sure that every person in the household knows the verbal cues to use and to NOT misuse the cues under any circumstances. That will only lead to confusion and the training process taking longer.
Now another verbal cue to use is once the dog is outside you can actually train the dog to go to the bathroom by saying certain words. In our household it's 'Go Potty.' As the dog gets the hang of going to the bathroom outside, he or she will get used to the verbal commands and go to the bathroom on command. Please note the important note about verbal cues. If this cue is misused you may have some messes to clean up in your own home for someone misusing the verbal cues.
Once the dog uses the bathroom, praise like crazy and go immediately back inside.
Those are the potty training methods. Now there are some other important aspects to potty training that also need to be discussed.
What to do when accidents happen
Accidents will happen. Refer back to rule #2 at the top. If you do not catch your dog in the act... DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES PUNISH OR YELL AT THE DOG!!! If you find a mess and you didn't catch the puppy or dog doing it, clean it up and forget about it.
Now if you do catch the dog in the act. Here are some rules to follow.
#1 - it is your fault that you did not catch the puppy in the 'pre-potty pattern'.
#2 - Do not get mad
#3 - Quickly and calmly pick them up (if they are small). If they are to big to pick up. Give a stern 'No!' without raising your voice or yelling.
#4 - Directly after 'No' take them outside to do their business
If you are carrying them outside, it will help to push their tail down because that will help to signal to them to not defecate or urinate any more.
#5 - You may have to wait a few minutes outside for them to finish their business and once they do praise them like mentioned before. (If your neighbor says you look like a crazy person - you're doing it right)
#6 - If you are too harsh in the scolding you will actually cause your house training efforts to go backwards, possibly resulting in the dog being fearful of you. Not only will the dog be fearful of you, but it may become fearful of going to the bathroom.
Feeding Schedule
Puppies need to go outside soon after they wake, and roughly 30 minutes after they eat or drink. Another way to help with housetraining is have them on a feeding schedule. You can feed a few times a day - allow them say 30 minutes to eat what is in their bowl and then take the bowl up off the floor. However, always allow them access to fresh water. 30 minutes after they eat, take them outside.
With house training two things to keep in mind: consistency, and if the dog has an accident that means you have to pay better attention to your dogs behavior.
Up Next: Dog Food
Potty training can be one of the most frustrating parts of training.
Some old school methods that you may remember using as a kid - don't really work. i.e. rubbing the dogs nose in the mess and putting the dog outside, or smacking it with a rolled up newspaper. While these were the methods of our parents - they do not work. The only thing they work for is instilling fear in your new puppy. Fear of you.
There are some basic rules you need to remember when starting the potty training process
#1 - If you don't catch the puppy in the act - DO NOT PUNISH THEM!!!
The way a dog's mind works is that if you punish them for a puddle you find on the floor, they aren't going to know you are punishing them for the puddle on the floor. They are going to think that you are punishing them for whatever they were doing when you punished them.
#2 - When the puppy does the right thing (i.e. go potty outside) praise like crazy!!!!
If they use the bathroom outside and you act a fool and praise them (every time in the beginning) a little light bulb will eventually go off in their head as the they get the hang of it. They will realize that going to the bathroom outside makes you happy - and gets them treats.
Okay now on to potty training methods - you can use newspapers, or the puppy pads, or the method that I have been more successful at and seems to be a little bit quicker and it actually doubles as getting the puppy used to being in a crate for periods of time when it cannot be supervised - Crate Training.
CRATE TRAINING
Now with a crate - do not get one that is too large - it should be large enough for them to lay down comfortably. That being said if you have a puppy like a rottweiler that will eventually be rather large, buy a crate that has a removable metal divider in it. This way the cage can grow with the puppy.
Dogs do not like to lay down in the same place they use the bathroom.
The easiest way to house train a puppy, is whenever they cannot be supervised they should be in the crate. It may seem a little harsh, but once a dog is used to their crate they will see it as a safe place for them to be even if they don't have to be.
Now before locking them in their crate - get in the habit of taking them outside to potty right before you lock them up. And as soon as you let them out take them outside. This will decrease the chances of accidents.
Do not put any food or water in the crate - you will be defeating your purpose of house training if you do this. Just a blanket and a safe chew toy (some chew toys should not be given to dogs unsupervised - which will be another blog topic in the future).
Also to begin with do not let the dog sleep outside of the crate. Once you know he or she is potty trained, you can increase the amount of time left outside of the crate.
There are two other methods - but the first of these two methods usually is not feasible in most instances. It is constant supervision
Constant Supervision
Constant supervision is just that. It does not involve a crate, or papers which will be discussed in the next method. You spend any and all necessary time with the puppy. This method only works for those who spend every waking minute with their animal. This method also means that you have to be very 'in tune' with your puppy in noticing when he does what is called the 'pre-potty pattern' Now depending on the dog's personality, the 'pre-potty pattern' can be hard to recognize. Some puppies pace, or get in your face to get your attention, some sniff the floor, some will whine, and others do nothing. With this method there is no room for error. There is no place in the home for accidents - other than your nice carpet, linoleum, tile or laminate flooring. Also with this method - it restricts the amount of playing outside. When you take them outside, after they do their business, you praise like crazy and bring them inside immediately. They need to associate the outside with potty time.
Papers & Pads
Many people and actually one method of the past that can work is laying down newspaper or puppy pads. With this method you place many pads in one area that is okay if they get it off the papers. Once they get the hang of using the papers, when you see them going into the 'pre-potty pattern' pick them up and take them outside to do their business.
As they get better at using the papers, begin moving the papers closer to the door that you usually use to take them outside. Then eventually you will have one set by the door, but you will also want to place another set outside. The next step, again as the puppy gets better at understanding that pottying happens outside, is to eliminate the papers inside.
On a final note: There is a flaw with this method. This method tells the puppy in the beginning that it is okay to go to the bathroom inside. Making it harder to housebreak the puppy. So this method is more difficult and more time consuming.
VERBAL CUES
This part of potty training should be used with all methods. Figure out a word to use to signal to the dog to go outside. In our household we use 'Outside?' And it is a question. That extra tone in your voice will help to get the dog excited about going outside.
An important note about verbal cues: If you live with more than one person, make sure that every person in the household knows the verbal cues to use and to NOT misuse the cues under any circumstances. That will only lead to confusion and the training process taking longer.
Now another verbal cue to use is once the dog is outside you can actually train the dog to go to the bathroom by saying certain words. In our household it's 'Go Potty.' As the dog gets the hang of going to the bathroom outside, he or she will get used to the verbal commands and go to the bathroom on command. Please note the important note about verbal cues. If this cue is misused you may have some messes to clean up in your own home for someone misusing the verbal cues.
Once the dog uses the bathroom, praise like crazy and go immediately back inside.
Those are the potty training methods. Now there are some other important aspects to potty training that also need to be discussed.
What to do when accidents happen
Accidents will happen. Refer back to rule #2 at the top. If you do not catch your dog in the act... DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES PUNISH OR YELL AT THE DOG!!! If you find a mess and you didn't catch the puppy or dog doing it, clean it up and forget about it.
Now if you do catch the dog in the act. Here are some rules to follow.
#1 - it is your fault that you did not catch the puppy in the 'pre-potty pattern'.
#2 - Do not get mad
#3 - Quickly and calmly pick them up (if they are small). If they are to big to pick up. Give a stern 'No!' without raising your voice or yelling.
#4 - Directly after 'No' take them outside to do their business
If you are carrying them outside, it will help to push their tail down because that will help to signal to them to not defecate or urinate any more.
#5 - You may have to wait a few minutes outside for them to finish their business and once they do praise them like mentioned before. (If your neighbor says you look like a crazy person - you're doing it right)
#6 - If you are too harsh in the scolding you will actually cause your house training efforts to go backwards, possibly resulting in the dog being fearful of you. Not only will the dog be fearful of you, but it may become fearful of going to the bathroom.
Feeding Schedule
Puppies need to go outside soon after they wake, and roughly 30 minutes after they eat or drink. Another way to help with housetraining is have them on a feeding schedule. You can feed a few times a day - allow them say 30 minutes to eat what is in their bowl and then take the bowl up off the floor. However, always allow them access to fresh water. 30 minutes after they eat, take them outside.
With house training two things to keep in mind: consistency, and if the dog has an accident that means you have to pay better attention to your dogs behavior.
Up Next: Dog Food
Monday, April 05, 2010
Pet Ownership Expenses
After considering different dogs for the perfect addition to your family, the next aspect of dog ownership to consider is expenses.
Pet ownership can be viewed much like taking care of a child for the next 15 years or so.
One of the first costs to consider is the amount for adoption or purchase of the animal. Some pets you can find for free, while other pets such as a purebred English Bulldog can run you thousands of dollars.
After the initial purchase of the animal, in this case, we are focusing on dogs but these tips can be used for almost any animal, is typical monthly costs to keep the pet happy and healthy.
Monthly Costs
As far as food - do your research. Get a good food. Do not buy something like 'Kibbles & Bits', or what many who know their dog food call 'crap in a bag' I will post another blog entry later entirely about dog food.
Toys and treats will need to be purchased on an as needed basis. Be sure with toys that you buy ones that are size appropriate for your specific dog. You don't want to buy a toy that is too small that they can swallow. Also always supervise your dog when they have toys.
One Time Expenses
There are also one time expenses to consider, such as some vet fees like sterilization. This is an important step for any responsible pet owner to take in order to prevent unwanted litters of puppies ending up with irresponsible owners, or in shelters, or worse - dead. Spaying and neutering can also prevent certain cancers in dogs. This is an expense you will only incur once. It is best to have this done around six months of age to prevent the dog from reaching sexual maturity. This helps in stopping certain hormones from entering the bloodstream which helps to prevent certain cancers.
Unexpected Expenses
Another expense to consider is emergency expenses - you never know when the dog will get into something they aren't supposed to or will come down sick from an illness or something like cancer. Surgeries can be quite expensive for dogs running into the thousands in some cases. You can never be prepared for an emergency to happen with your pet, but it does help to have some money set back just in case.
Occasional Expenses
Other expenses to consider are those that you initially use before adopting a dog and may incur periodically throughout the dog's life. Some of these expenses include collars, leashes, food and water bowls, and a crate. The crate can actually be a one time expense if you purchase a sturdy crate that will accommodate the dog once it is fully grown.
Yearly Expenses
Being a responsible pet owner means taking the dog to the vet, just like you would go to the doctor for a checkup. There are certain shots that a dog needs to have every year like the rabies shot (which is required in all states). Other shots - such as puppy shots can fall under a one time occurrence, and other shots fall under occasional expenses such as kennel cough. The only time I personally recommend that shot is if your dog will be staying in a doggy daycare, kennel, or will be around other dogs that do not live in the same household frequently.
Next up - Potty Training.
Pet ownership can be viewed much like taking care of a child for the next 15 years or so.
One of the first costs to consider is the amount for adoption or purchase of the animal. Some pets you can find for free, while other pets such as a purebred English Bulldog can run you thousands of dollars.
After the initial purchase of the animal, in this case, we are focusing on dogs but these tips can be used for almost any animal, is typical monthly costs to keep the pet happy and healthy.
Monthly Costs
- Food
- Toys
- Treats
- Grooming - depending on the dog
- Flea & Heartworm Preventative
As far as food - do your research. Get a good food. Do not buy something like 'Kibbles & Bits', or what many who know their dog food call 'crap in a bag' I will post another blog entry later entirely about dog food.
Toys and treats will need to be purchased on an as needed basis. Be sure with toys that you buy ones that are size appropriate for your specific dog. You don't want to buy a toy that is too small that they can swallow. Also always supervise your dog when they have toys.
One Time Expenses
There are also one time expenses to consider, such as some vet fees like sterilization. This is an important step for any responsible pet owner to take in order to prevent unwanted litters of puppies ending up with irresponsible owners, or in shelters, or worse - dead. Spaying and neutering can also prevent certain cancers in dogs. This is an expense you will only incur once. It is best to have this done around six months of age to prevent the dog from reaching sexual maturity. This helps in stopping certain hormones from entering the bloodstream which helps to prevent certain cancers.
Unexpected Expenses
Another expense to consider is emergency expenses - you never know when the dog will get into something they aren't supposed to or will come down sick from an illness or something like cancer. Surgeries can be quite expensive for dogs running into the thousands in some cases. You can never be prepared for an emergency to happen with your pet, but it does help to have some money set back just in case.
Occasional Expenses
Other expenses to consider are those that you initially use before adopting a dog and may incur periodically throughout the dog's life. Some of these expenses include collars, leashes, food and water bowls, and a crate. The crate can actually be a one time expense if you purchase a sturdy crate that will accommodate the dog once it is fully grown.
Yearly Expenses
Being a responsible pet owner means taking the dog to the vet, just like you would go to the doctor for a checkup. There are certain shots that a dog needs to have every year like the rabies shot (which is required in all states). Other shots - such as puppy shots can fall under a one time occurrence, and other shots fall under occasional expenses such as kennel cough. The only time I personally recommend that shot is if your dog will be staying in a doggy daycare, kennel, or will be around other dogs that do not live in the same household frequently.
Next up - Potty Training.
Monday, March 29, 2010
How to Pick the Right Dog
With my first post about dog ownership and training, let's start with the first step - picking the right dog.
Dogs can live for quite some time - sometimes upwards of over 20 years, so deciding on adding a dog into your life is something that should not be taken lightly. Dog ownership is a lifetime commitment - it should be assumed that the dog will be a part of your life and family for the rest of it's life.
Dog ownership isn't just about going to a breeder and picking a certain breed because you like that particular breed. Same can be said for a shelter or rescue. You should put some thought into it and pick the right dog for your lifestyle.
First thing to consider when deciding to enter into dog ownership - Temperament.
With temperament - consider your own personality and lifestyle. If you are an active person and are willing to put in the effort to make the dog a part of your active lifestyle - i.e. taking the dog for hikes, runs, swims, etc, then a more active breed would be better suited for your lifestyle. If you are not looking to buy a purebred dog from a reputable breeder then you can visit your local shelter and find active dogs there as well. Other aspects to consider with temperament are a dog's ability to be trained and also how the dog gets along with strangers and familiar people. If you are not an active person - then a dog with a lower level of energy would be better suited for you and your home.
Also with temperament and energy level - you need to consider where you live. If you live in an apartment a high energy level dog would not be well suited because it will not have much space to run off the extra energy it has, but if you have a house with a decent size yard and the ability to commit time to exercising a higher energy dog, then the higher energy may be suited for you.
Next issue to consider - Size.
Dogs come in all shapes and sizes. From a couple pounds, to almost a couple hundred pounds. If you live in a one bedroom apartment a large mastiff will not be an ideal dog for you. Also consider your own size, if you are a small framed person, a large breed dog may not be ideal because you may not be able to control it 100% of the time. If you are buying from a breeder (again - reputable) make sure that you can see the parents. Looking at the parents will help you to gauge how large the dog will be when full grown.
Issue #3 - Grooming Needs
All dogs are not treated equal, even on the grooming front. Many people do not take grooming needs of a dog into consideration before buying or adopting a dog. The coats of dogs come in all textures, colors and lengths. Dogs with curly or long hair take more grooming than a short coated dog. Grooming needs of an American Cocker Spaniel run at least $50/month with minimum of one visit to the groomer per month. This is a considerable expense that for that type of dog is a regular maintenance expense. If you do not want to put the extra money towards multiple trips to the groomer than it is best to go with a short coated dog.
Issue #4 - Puppy or Adult
Most people gravitate towards getting a puppy because let's face it - it's hard to resist that puppy face or that puppy breath. It's also great to know that you will know first hand what happens to the puppy from the moment that you buy or adopt it regarding socialization or training. Here is the downfall to owning a puppy. Training a puppy takes hard work and a lot of time. Not to mention the amount of patience it takes. You can't get mad if it pees on the carpet or chews up your favorite shoe. It is doing what comes naturally to it - it's your responsibility to teach it all of these things. Most people do not want to take the time to adopt an adult dog - but there is usually an upside to adopting an adult dog from your local shelter. Most adult dogs already know some basic commands and have been socialized. Most of the time adult dogs also adjust better to their new home and surroundings.
Senior dogs should not be left out either - adopting a senior dog can be beneficial especially if you are looking for a lower energy dog. Most senior dogs are destined to live in the shelter because usually no one wants to adopt them, and most are ultimately euthanized.
Issue #5 - Purebred or Mix-Breed
Purebred dogs are great - but be prepared for the possibility of extra vet care expenses because certain breeds are prone to health problems - some of which can be major and even fatal. Not to mention the other expense of buying from a breeder - you can pay upwards of thousands of dollars for the puppy of your breed choice. Therein lies another problem - finding a reputable breeder - which will be another post altogether. Just because a person has a certain breed of puppy for sale does not make them a reputable breeder.
Mix-breeds are readily available at any local shelter for mostly a nominal fee. Usually when adopting from your local shelter, you will not have to worry about the dogs first round of shots or sterilization - which is always a good thing. Downside of mix-breeds - if you adopt a puppy you won't know what the dog's temperament will be like as it gets older and you will not know it's size. You also can't always go by the mix the shelter labels the dog as. 98% of the time you are getting a mutt through and through. But you can also find a breed specific rescue and adopt a purebred dog, but usually in these rescues just like any other shelter the dog will not have papers.
So with these basics to consider - start searching for your ideal dog!!!!!
Next post - Expenses to consider
Dogs can live for quite some time - sometimes upwards of over 20 years, so deciding on adding a dog into your life is something that should not be taken lightly. Dog ownership is a lifetime commitment - it should be assumed that the dog will be a part of your life and family for the rest of it's life.
Dog ownership isn't just about going to a breeder and picking a certain breed because you like that particular breed. Same can be said for a shelter or rescue. You should put some thought into it and pick the right dog for your lifestyle.
First thing to consider when deciding to enter into dog ownership - Temperament.
With temperament - consider your own personality and lifestyle. If you are an active person and are willing to put in the effort to make the dog a part of your active lifestyle - i.e. taking the dog for hikes, runs, swims, etc, then a more active breed would be better suited for your lifestyle. If you are not looking to buy a purebred dog from a reputable breeder then you can visit your local shelter and find active dogs there as well. Other aspects to consider with temperament are a dog's ability to be trained and also how the dog gets along with strangers and familiar people. If you are not an active person - then a dog with a lower level of energy would be better suited for you and your home.
Also with temperament and energy level - you need to consider where you live. If you live in an apartment a high energy level dog would not be well suited because it will not have much space to run off the extra energy it has, but if you have a house with a decent size yard and the ability to commit time to exercising a higher energy dog, then the higher energy may be suited for you.
Next issue to consider - Size.
Dogs come in all shapes and sizes. From a couple pounds, to almost a couple hundred pounds. If you live in a one bedroom apartment a large mastiff will not be an ideal dog for you. Also consider your own size, if you are a small framed person, a large breed dog may not be ideal because you may not be able to control it 100% of the time. If you are buying from a breeder (again - reputable) make sure that you can see the parents. Looking at the parents will help you to gauge how large the dog will be when full grown.
Issue #3 - Grooming Needs
All dogs are not treated equal, even on the grooming front. Many people do not take grooming needs of a dog into consideration before buying or adopting a dog. The coats of dogs come in all textures, colors and lengths. Dogs with curly or long hair take more grooming than a short coated dog. Grooming needs of an American Cocker Spaniel run at least $50/month with minimum of one visit to the groomer per month. This is a considerable expense that for that type of dog is a regular maintenance expense. If you do not want to put the extra money towards multiple trips to the groomer than it is best to go with a short coated dog.
Issue #4 - Puppy or Adult
Most people gravitate towards getting a puppy because let's face it - it's hard to resist that puppy face or that puppy breath. It's also great to know that you will know first hand what happens to the puppy from the moment that you buy or adopt it regarding socialization or training. Here is the downfall to owning a puppy. Training a puppy takes hard work and a lot of time. Not to mention the amount of patience it takes. You can't get mad if it pees on the carpet or chews up your favorite shoe. It is doing what comes naturally to it - it's your responsibility to teach it all of these things. Most people do not want to take the time to adopt an adult dog - but there is usually an upside to adopting an adult dog from your local shelter. Most adult dogs already know some basic commands and have been socialized. Most of the time adult dogs also adjust better to their new home and surroundings.
Senior dogs should not be left out either - adopting a senior dog can be beneficial especially if you are looking for a lower energy dog. Most senior dogs are destined to live in the shelter because usually no one wants to adopt them, and most are ultimately euthanized.
Issue #5 - Purebred or Mix-Breed
Purebred dogs are great - but be prepared for the possibility of extra vet care expenses because certain breeds are prone to health problems - some of which can be major and even fatal. Not to mention the other expense of buying from a breeder - you can pay upwards of thousands of dollars for the puppy of your breed choice. Therein lies another problem - finding a reputable breeder - which will be another post altogether. Just because a person has a certain breed of puppy for sale does not make them a reputable breeder.
Mix-breeds are readily available at any local shelter for mostly a nominal fee. Usually when adopting from your local shelter, you will not have to worry about the dogs first round of shots or sterilization - which is always a good thing. Downside of mix-breeds - if you adopt a puppy you won't know what the dog's temperament will be like as it gets older and you will not know it's size. You also can't always go by the mix the shelter labels the dog as. 98% of the time you are getting a mutt through and through. But you can also find a breed specific rescue and adopt a purebred dog, but usually in these rescues just like any other shelter the dog will not have papers.
So with these basics to consider - start searching for your ideal dog!!!!!
Next post - Expenses to consider
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